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Purchasing
a baby cockatoo from
Hornbeam Aviary
A lot of time, hard
work and care go into the baby Cockatoos raised at Hornbeam Aviary, and it’s
important to us that each one finds a permanent home with a loving
family. We reserve the right to refuse to sell a bird if we feel that the
prospective buyer hasn’t done enough research to fully understand what he or she
is getting into. We also require proof that you have a cage that meets our size
requirements. This is a small aviary and we produce only as many baby cockatoos
as we feel we can find good homes for. It may be necessary to put your name on
our waiting list if the bird you’re looking for isn’t immediately available.
Once we have your name, address and phone number we ask that you phone (leave a
message), email, write, or somehow get in touch with us once a month to let us
know that you are still interested. When a chick hatches, this keeps us from
having to contact dozens of people who may no longer be interested in purchasing
a bird and also reassures us that this baby is high on your priority list. Most
babies are left with their parents for 3 to 6 weeks. When we bring it inside to
begin hand feeding, we will contact you. A deposit is due at that time which
will hold the baby until it is ready to go home. We encourage you to visit your
baby while it is growing up and we welcome questions at any time. Our baby
cockatoos come with lifetime technical support! We make a point of keeping in
touch with new owners for a while to be sure everything is going smoothly, but
if you have questions at any time, please call and we will do our best to help.
And, of course, we love getting progress reports months or years down the road!
Insuring
that your baby is healthy
A couple of weeks
before you plan to take your baby cockatoo home, we will have it checked by our
veterinarian. We are extremely fortunate to have Dr. Jamie
Lindstrom, one of
the most experienced avian vets in the country, just 45 minutes away. He
conducts a careful and thorough external physical exam and weight recording to
be sure that everything appears normal. Then he does
Gram’s stains,
which are swabs of the choana (back of the throat) and feces, smeared on slides
and stained with special dyes. These are examined under a microscope to evaluate
the microbial status of the digestive tract. Then a blood sample is taken for a
CBC, or complete blood count
to identify cells that are involved in the inflammatory and disease-fighting
processes and to determine if the bird is anemic. The immune system of baby
parrots is somewhat undeveloped and the stress of going to a new home can
acerbate an otherwise minor problem. Most of our babies check out fine, but in
the event that a white cell count or the number of gram-negative bacteria is a
bit high, we want to fix the problem
before
it goes home! We recommend that you have your vet repeat the CBC and
Gram’s stains each year as part of its well-bird exam. Unless we have a pretty
good idea of the baby’s gender, we will have it DNA sexed to give you a better
idea of what behaviors to expect as the bird reaches maturity.
Shipping
We
would much
prefer not to ship our baby cockatoos, but it gives us access to so many more
blue ribbon bird owners. We have years of experience shipping our babies around
the country and have devised some ways of making it a less stressful experience
for the youngster. Birds are primarily visual creatures and there are probably
few things more frightening than being crammed into a deafening, bumpy cargo
hold with barking dogs, yelling cats and slithering reptiles. I learned years
ago that high white cell counts (an indicator of stress in young cockatoos) were
much lower in babies that were transported to the veterinary clinic for their
routine checkups in dark, covered carriers. When we began covering shipping
containers in unbleached muslin fabric, we found that our baby cockatoos were
arriving at their destinations far less stressed and frightened for not having
been exposed to the visual trauma of airline travel. Apparently, to a bird,
noise doesn’t matter if you can’t see what’s making it! Another plus is that
the cloth cover reduces the likelihood of disease transmission from other birds.
Our babies are shipped “counter to counter”, which (usually) means that they are
hand-carried to and from the plane at the same time baggage is being loaded and
unloaded, rather than being handled more slowly as freight.
When you bring him home
We advise new owners to house baby where
it will be able to watch family members and household activities, but
ALWAYS place the cage against a wall or in a corner to help provide a sense of
security. A night-light is also a good idea for a
few days until it becomes accustomed to its surroundings. Resist the urge to
hold and play with the baby very much for at least the first 12 hours. The young
bird should remain in its cage so that it can become accustomed to its new home
and family members without feeling overwhelmed. This is important!
Remember that the baby has no idea why he has been abandoned by his ‘flock’
members and will be understandably upset. Take turns sitting beside the cage
talking quietly to him. He’ll find you less intimidating if you’re not towering
over him. If there are children in the
family, have them read storybooks to him. He’ll find the sound soothing. Offer
warm kernels of sweet corn with your fingers through the cage bars. It’s OK to
gently scratch his head and face through the bars if he solicits the attention.
A shy or nervous bird will come around much faster if you limit direct eye
contact. Staring is something predators do . . . . .it’s never polite, and for
all he knows you’re planning to have him for dinner!
Weaning
(Important!)
Beware
of breeders and pet shops that boast how quickly they can get their baby parrots
weaned! Prior to sending him home, your cockatoo will have been eating very well
on his own. The stress and worry of being suddenly sent off to live in a new
home with new people will likely cause him to revert to old baby behavior. He
may ‘forget’ how to eat by himself and will sway back and forth crying hoarsely,
begging for food and attention. At this age hand-feeding has less to do
with nutrition than with letting the baby know you are there for him.
Begin by offering parrot pellets soaked in hot fruit juice, warm cooked oatmeal
or mashed baked sweet potato with a spoon twice a day for the first few days –
until he settles in and is eating well. Babies love WARM, moist foods and these
can also be offered from your fingers. Warm canned or defrosted corn and peas
are favorites as are cooked pasta, rice, and dried beans (navy, pinto, black
eyed peas, etc.,); chunks of baked or micro waved carrots, squash or sweet
potatoes in their skins. Commercial avian products like Crazy Corn
are also good. Replace the dish of soft food often. Keep a dish of avian pellets
and crunchy unsweetened dry cereal (Cheerios, Wheat, Corn & Rice Chex) in the
cage too. Other good foods that don’t spoil quickly are whole wheat peanut
butter sandwiches (cut into small squares); raisins; grated hard cheese (like
colby or cheddar); cracked whole almonds or walnuts in the shell; fresh shredded
broccoli, kale, mustard greens, collard greens, turnip greens and spinach. If
you pack greens tightly into a plastic carousel-type treat holder, a baby
cockatoo will spend hours happily shredding and nibbling them. It’s probably
best to go lightly on fruit. It’s mostly sugar and water and doesn’t pack near
the nutritional wallop of fresh vegetables.
Dried fruit and nut mixes are the equivalent of bird candy and shouldn’t be fed
on a daily basis.
Don’t ever let a baby go hungry in an
effort to force it to eat by itself.
A youngster that has just been hand-fed is much more likely to nibble at a bowl
of soft food than one that is too hungry to think about anything but getting its
parents’ attention. Weaning should be a natural, gradual process.
For many months after leaving the nest, a young parrot in the wild relies on its
parents to help it find food. I have a baby Moluccan who was still being fed by
his parents at 11 months old. Phoebe Linden, a well known parrot behavior
expert, feels that it is quite likely that a baby bird solicits food from its
parents long after it has learned to eat by itself as a way of forcing the
parent birds to remain with it until it has learned the skills needed to survive
on its own. So when you refuse to hand-feed a baby bird, you are telling
it that you are also done with teaching and protecting it. How
traumatic that must be for a youngster who knows instinctively that it isn’t yet
ready to fend for itself! A healthy, happy baby that isn’t rushed
into growing up too soon is much more likely to become a well-adjusted adult.
It may sound silly, but it’s a good idea to feed your bird from a perch or cage
where it can see you eating. Parrots in the wild do everything together
as a family group, and foraging for food is the most important. If at mealtimes
you offer your Cockatoo a small dish of whatever you are eating, it will feel
like a member of the flock and will quickly learn to enjoy a wide variety of
foods.
Now,
if you STILL want a cockatoo. .
. . .
Please read
the “published articles by Katy” on this site. If you
are interested in a Moluccan or an
Umbrella baby visit
www.mytoos.com for some eye opening realities. If you are still interested
in a cockatoo, please contact us so that we can help you determine if your
expectations of cockatoo ownership are likely to result in a long, happy
relationship for you and your bird. All email will be answered but we get lots
of inquiries about cockatoo care and behavior, so please be patient. We highly
recommend the following sources of information:
Companion
Parrot Quarterly, (formerly The Pet Bird Report). “The Thinking
Parrot Owner’s Information Source”
is a magazine devoted to keeping pet
birds emotionally and physically healthy and is an excellent source of
information on understanding and guiding your Cockatoo’s behavior. The address
is The Pet Bird Information Council,
2236 Mariner Square
Drive #35, Almeda, CA
94501. Phone (510) 523-5303, Fax (510) 521-6475. A one-year subscription is $24.
The Companion Parrot Handbook
by Sally Blanchard contains all of the tools needed to deal with your parrots in
such a way that they live the fullest lives possible and you derive the greatest
enjoyment from them. 244 pages, 300 illustrations, $39.95+$5 S&H. Order from
Companion Parrot Quarterly/Companion Parrot Handbook/R, 2236 Mariner Square Dr.
#35, Alameda, CA 94501.
My Parrot, My Friend: An Owner’s Guide
to Parrot Behavior, by
Bonnie Munro Doane. Hard cover, 256 pages, 100 photos and illustrations, $25.00
plus shipping.
Guide To A
Well-Behaved Parrot (second edition) by Mattie Sue Athan, published by
Barron’s Educational Series, Inc., 250 Wireless Boulevard,
Hauppauge,
New York 11788. This is an inexpensive paperback that is widely available from
pet stores and supply outlets.
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